Neil Perry's Wagyu Beef Bolognese

Neil Perry's Wagyu Beef Bolognese

2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 onion, finely chopped

4 garlic cloves, finely chopped

1 small carrot, finely diced

1 stalk celery, finely diced

80g speck, finely diced

sea salt

400g minced wagyu

400ml full-bodied red wine

2 x 400g cans peeled tomatoes

2 sprigs thyme, leaves picked and chopped

400g fettuccine

1 very small handful flat-leaf parsley, chiffonade cut*, to serve

freshly ground black pepper

freshly grated parmesan, to serve

Don't be afraid to use secondary, and therefore cheaper, cuts of wagyu for this foolproof crowd-pleaser; they'll make the ragu not only more affordable but richer and tastier, too. You can make your own pasta – fresh noodles will take next to no time to cook – but, whatever you choose, remember this little tip: add a half-cup of the starchy pasta water to the pan when combining all the elements at the end. It helps the sauce stick to the strips and gives it a beautiful sheen.

Method

1. Heat the olive oil in a large, deep-sided frying pan over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic, carrot, celery and speck, season with salt and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes or until the vegetables have caramelised (don't burn them).

2. Add the minced wagyu, season with salt and cook, breaking up the beef with a wooden spoon, for 5 minutes or until the beef is well browned.

3. Pour in the wine and bring to the boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook until the liquid has reduced by half.

4. Add the tomato and simmer for about 45 minutes or until thickened. Add the thyme and check the seasoning.

5. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil. Add the fettuccine and cook until al dente. Drain, reserving half a cup of the starchy pasta water.

6. Toss the pasta with the sauce and the reserved pasta water, cooking for a further minute, before dividing among 4 bowls. Garnish with the parsley, grind over some pepper and serve with the parmesan.

*This is a slicing technique in which leaves are cut into long, thin strips. Stack the leaves, roll them tightly and cut them on the perpendicular with a sharp knife.

Spaghetti bolognese is so familiar to us all, it’s like part of the family, welcome home any time. But here’s the thing. Could it be better? What would make it even more delicious? Here are 10 ways to riff on it.

1. Swap the minced beef for hand-chopped beef as per the traditional ragu of Bologna, and cook it long and slow.

2. Instead of 1kg minced beef, use a mix of minced beef and minced pork, veal or chicken for extra sweetness.

3. Swap the diced bacon for diced pancetta, smoked lardons, pork jowl (guanciale) or mortadella, for contrasting textures.

4. Add 100g dried wild mushrooms, soaked in warm water for one hour and chopped. Strain the water and use to replace some of the stock.

5. Add a finely chopped red capsicum or baked eggplant to up the veg count.

6. Add 400g chicken livers, cleaned and chopped, for extra richness (and if you like the sound of that, consider a handful of chopped, blanched brains as well).

7. Add a dash of soy sauce, for a deeper savouriness.

8. Add two cloves, because cloves are awesome.

9. Beef up the greenery with the classic “song” of herbs – parsley, sage, rosemary and thyme (sing along now).

10. Finish with two tablespoons cream or milk, to pull it all together as one.